The next chapter in Bhutan

I left Montana a week ago already (seems like much longer ago).  My first post enroute to Bhutan: One of the many beautiful sites on the long journey to Bhutan

The impressive land/snow mass presence of Mount Rainier pumped my spirit with belief and strength as we flew by.  Not so long ago I found myself on that summit in borrowed snow gear, rented boots and crampons - my first snow/glacier/mountain summit embarked upon rather blindly as a distraction/reaction to deep grief of suddenly losing my dear dog Shiva.  Life presents summits, none of which come by without the not-so-simple ability to put one foot in front of the other in unfamiliar and even extreme conditions while belief and disbelief dance with each other.  Powered by the drum beat of persistence.  Compelled.  Scared.  Humbled.  Intrigued.  Here I go again - not the ice crystal snow ghost mountain but a creative endeavor in a tiny fairytale country undertaken as a gift for a king.

You can follow regular updates on Facebook or Instagram

Off to the foundry...!

Owlet 2At last…! I began this little bugger early last year. I hadn’t planned on creating an owl for 2016 (I had a another critter in mind) but early in the year an owl visited me on a full moon night. I filmed the Great Horned Owl while it sat like a sentinel on top of my beloved tree. Perfect shaped and majestic, the giant Fir tree a picturesque silhouette on starry nights between my bedroom window and the twinkling lights of Livingston below. The tree greeted me each time I drove home to my cabin at the end of the road near the top of this mountain. During the holidays I was always tempted to light it up with a huge star on top for everyone in the valley below to enjoy. We suffered and celebrated more than two decades together. The tree scourged summer after summer by Spruce Bud Worms during the last years.

After a particularly difficult winter for both of us, the tree seemed to bounce back with vigor. That spring it looked better than it had in years and I thought, “We are survivors, you and me, dear tree…we have this…!" Looking back, it is as if the tree rallied for me, knowing I needed a boost and some confidence, I drew strength from its strength.

OwletThen it died.

I hated to ask Cliff to cut it down because Cliff had back and shoulder pain issues; old injuries from his logging days. I complained to Raymond about the negative “Feng Shui” that comes from such a large dead thing in our front yard. But what a perfect perch for a giant owl. The full moon night visit from the owl was poignant. Remarkable. I had a sense it carried a message and thought the message had something to do with my mother - perhaps the owl was letting me know 2016 would be mother’s final year. Raymond asked for Cliff’s assistance to cut the tree down in February as I birthday present surprise while I was in Panama. Of course Cliff made quick business of the tree and landed it perfectly so that it wouldn’t squish any of the young trees sprouting everywhere. Cliff cut the trunk of the tree into perfect rounds which became seats for guests at our wedding. The stumps sit in an Aspen Grove near my studio.

A few months after my return from Panama, Cliff comforted me on the morning I called Hospice for assistance to continue care for my mother in her home. Cliff took mom cookies and then he died on the same day Raymond cut the path in the meadow where Cliff was to walk me down the aisle on my wedding day. An owl perched on the tallest tree next to the Yellowstone River when Raymond, Wynn and I launched a home made flotilla with some of Cliff’s ashes in the moonlight.

Again and again I picked up the little lump of “owlish” clay but I simply could not create. Two weeks ago as I gave a stranded motorist a ride to his home up Paradise Valley, a giant Great Horned Owl owl flew past my truck window and looked directly at me. Those of you who know Cliff know he was legendary for the assistance he gave friends, family and strangers alike. I knew it was time to finish the little owlet. Emotional but healing, the little sculpture began to find itself while a fire crackled in my studio.

I finished the little bugger yesterday. Upon sending a photo to my girlfriend Wynn, she texted, “OMG. It looks like him. Did u do that intentionally?” Honestly I did not...but I felt so much of Cliff while working on his owl that of course “Cliffness” emanates from the owlet.

Crying as I write this, feeling is part of healing topped with gratitude. Not many are gifted with a “Cliff” in their life. He was one-of-a-kind, gentle, strong and damn loyal. The tears are good - the kind of gold that comes from loving and being loved.  I felt renewed energy in my step early this morning as Tala and I walked through falling snow to my studio.

Chapter after chapter, critter after critter and plenty of blessings...

Five decades...?!!!

Super tough socks gift with a guaranteed lifetime warranty for the birthday girl... When you get carded at the liqueur store buying goodies to celebrate your 50th birthday AND the memorable weekend away brings lots of warm fuzzies and fond memories shared with my husband (who spoils me) his folks (who are family) and friends (the best).  Plus an extra bonus day celebration President's day when twelve girlfriends soaked with me at the Boiling River while wearing lingerie... (lotsa giggles and goosebumps)

Finding himself...

progress - slow and steady... The evening of the day I returned to sculpt the little owl, I went home and promptly got sick.  Perhaps sickness walloped me because I actually bragged out loud the day before that I had managed the events, stress and long flights during the past year without getting sick.  Not even once...

Then BAM.  Crud.  Couched.

Maybe it had something to do with returning to the owl?

Winter Wonderland

Levy Denham blanketed in a recent snowfall. A sharp perfect cutout sliver of moon hung above Livingston like a stage prop yesterday evening as I got in my truck.  I had just shared a piece of chocolate cream pie with a girlfriend.  We exchanged advise, support and love for each other as we shared current challenges in our lives and the world we live in.  I feel lucky to be surrounded by so much beauty and strong supportive friends.

Meet Levi Denham

Nice compliment to my studio don't you think? Bought this bugger Thursday morning in 10 minutes over the phone through a trusted friend (I HIGHLY recommend Phil for any auto-buying needs).  Raymond and I left Friday evening for Minneapolis, drove through the night in the old rodeo truck as temps outside dipped more than twenty degrees below zero.  I watched an amazing slow motion North Dakota sunrise - the bold sunbeam squeezed skyward by crisp cold air just before the sun blazingly burped into the sky a moment after this photo was shot:

Sunrise squeezed by super cold air

I very quickly bonded with my "new" rig during the 15 hour ride home. Ford calls the color, "Blue Jeans Metallic." Levi seemed an appropriate name and "Denham" happened because I know how much Cliff would have liked this truck.  Throughout my twenties, Cliff would tell me to "hurry up and make money Honey so you can adopt a child" - which I alway imagined to be a girl but if it were a boy - I threatened to name the child Levi Denham.

Each of my last two trucks spent nearly a decade with me.  I certainly hadn't planned on my truck getting totaled (I put $1200 into having the front end rebuilt less than two hours before a lady ran a stop sign and totaled my truck).  I don't believe Levi spent much of his life being a truck but less than 24 hours after bringing Levi home, the truck began its new life by hauling a large sculpture down our steep mountain across icy interstate roads to the Yellowstone Art Museum for an upcoming show and auction.

Reliquary sculpture headed to museum less than 24 hours after arriving home with my "new" rig

Levi looks good in front of my studio...

Home Sweet Home

Oh my goodness.  We all need to sit down for a long cup of tea or a big glass of wine as I've sooooo many stories to share...! Warm hearts in below zero temps

I meant to write.  Sooner.  More often.  But lordy life walloped me with complexity at the same time I was whipped with jet lag (much worse jet lag on the return than going over).  Just a quickie list to give you an idea:

Studio furnace gasped, sputtered and quit (over and over) a few days before my return from Bhutan.  I had to gimp it along, restart and restart the poor bugger while keeping a fire in the stove for the following week.  Raymond had to keep blowing our road open for three service visits while we waited for parts during a SUPER cold snap.

Ski time with my tough (frosty) little niece.

No truck.  My truck was totaled just a few days before I left for the fairy tale kingdom of Bhutan.  I've owned 3 trucks in the last 30 years.  Insurance companies and shopping...

Solstice in Yellowstone.  What a blessing to be at Old Faithful with my new (OFFICIAL) family for a few days of pure beauty and total delight.  The snow coach delivered us back to civilization a day before Christmas Eve.

The holidays.  Mix of celebration and mourning.  Cliff and mom a big part of my heart and soul.

Lotsa post-holiday life stuff as the sale of my mother's condo was settled, a new (used) truck purchased, some intense post-dog-attack yuckiness in the formal (formidable) world of attorneys and insurance companies, the delivery of a sculpture to the Yellowstone Art Museum and a total (much needed) revamp of my studio.

More (of course) has transpired in the four weeks since my return.  I am still processing the magic that happened overseas even as I begin plans for my return.

Sparking possibilities...

I see sparks and joy... She was very shy but circled closer and closer once her brother excitedly told her what I was up to. I'm not certain but several of us us discussed it and believe I am the first female to carve in Bhutan. The beautiful fairytale Himalayan country is impressively embellished by a long history of traditionally trained carvers. One of the caught this candid moment while he was on a ladder outside:

The Takin always grins

image"Madam is so happy today," Norgay said with a broad smile this evening as we were all packing up our tools. He was genuinely pleased. I looked around at the other jolly Bhutanese carpenters who were looking at me, nodding and grinning along with Norgay and I laughed - not at anything in particular - just because...The darkness of the last two days has lifted. I carved and cried and felt my way through a round of intense emotions. Though no one here actually saw me cry, I was never alone (as so many of you pointed out to me). And so I share with you the perma-goofy-grin of a critter called the Takin which also happens (of course) to be Bhutan's National Mammal - a perfect pick for a country with a declared GNH (gross national happiness). I aim to make a pilgrimage to see a Takin in person. When I shared this photo with Raymond a week ago his response was, "I want one" which is one of the zillion reasons I love the man I married.

As the Prayer-wheel turns...

Prayer wheel manEach morning as I stand in the back of a truck and bounce up the primitive road-under-construction to the job site in the trees, we pass this sweet sparkle soul who sits in the same place in the same clothes catching the early morning sunshine while spinning the same prayer wheel. Spinning and grinning. Except yesterday he wasn't there. Yesterday I flip flopped from feeling very zen and adaptable in this overwhelming experience to simply feeling overwhelmed. I have been sharing with you the delicious good juicy parts but truthfully - between the blue sky, trees, vivid colors and bright sparkle peeps, there is a bumpy road with equal parts dust and muck and progress-delaying giant rock piles.So it goes... Between the giddiness, the glory, the inspiration - I still grieve. I deal with darkness, doubt, fear and frustration. I miss Cliff horribly - he has been my rock during the ups and downs of creation for over 20 years. Cliff could ALWAYS see in the wood the image and what needed to be done when my overworked mind could no longer see. "That ain't right Honey," Cliff would say but then he would look at my carving while carefully looking at the image I was trying to carve. He would take his time. Sometimes he took what-seemed-like-forever. Eventually he would point out the elusive-to-my-eyes problem. Cliff was always right. Always calm. "Don't cry Honey" he would say. He would tell me what I had gotten right as well - artists are so hard on ourselves and much of what I do as a carver is pressured by the fact that I cannot put wood back on (not in a purist sense) so relief carving has the intensity of surgery or super-difficult rock climbing. Pretty much all the conditions I have become accustomed to working under for the last several decades are lacking on this project. Compromises on top of compromises are testing my mettle. Cliff would step in when things weren't right around me and fix them - like a quiet leprechaun. After another restless night and a pre-dawn meditation session I aim to conjure up the quietude of the sweet little prayer-wheel fella. Spin. Breath. Spin. (photo taken by Christopher Spogis)

Happiness Abounds

imageA few mornings ago this bright beaming nun waddled up to Ken and I while we waited for our driver to pick us up at the bottom of the hill below the resort. The bundled up nun had a piece of gum for each of us. She didn't speak a word of English. I insisted she have one of my Newman's Ginger chews but she shook her head, spoke in Dzongkha and pointed to her mouth. I thought maybe she was saying she didn't have the teeth for it but she took a piece and wandered quickly away. Yesterday the smiling nun showed up again with a fistful of candy. When she placed a piece of "Liebe Milk" candy in my hand I said the Dzongkha word for "thank-you." She said in clear English, "I just love you" before she turned around and walked off with that contagious smile on her face. I dropped my pack and ran after her to get this photo. She squealed in surprise when she saw us in my cell phone camera. I wanted to wrap my arms around her and squeeze her but she was quickly off again - walking and smiling. Moments later I climbed into the back of the truck with a pack of cheerful Bhutanese carpenters. Each morning I stand behind the cab to take in the endlessly fascinating views and gulp the fresh Himalayan air. Yesterday I grinned giddily with a gift of candy in my mouth and an overwhelming sense of love, wonder, joy and purpose.

Thanksgiving in the Bhutanese Lodge Kitchen

Cooking it up with "the girls" at Risum Lodge in Haa Pumpkins don't exist in Haa but apples aplenty had me thinking I could whip out one of my mom's apple pies for the gang but I kinda wimped out at the prospect of baking pie in the bukari (woodstove) so I came up with a stove top apple crisp concoction and had a BLAST cooking in the lodge kitchen with "the girls" (we've adopted our Bhutanese lodge staff of young sweeties). Rob Ryder took the photos.

So thankful I could cry...

Power tool breakthrough... I've a 13 hour head start on Thanksgiving as the sun rises quietly above the beautiful Haa Valley. I've much to be grateful for but here is one personally powerful gratitude: After a long 18 month challenging journey with PTSD following the harrowing dog pack attack last spring - yesterday was a milestone which leaves me feeling humbly, intensely thankful-to-the-point-of-tears. I finally wrapped my wrists, pulled on my work gloves, ear protection, dust mask and protective eyewear and went to work with power tools...!!! PTSD pounced on and snuffed my creative confidence - for some reason I became terrified of power tools (along with other terrors previously unknown). Many small steps and several large leaps via various approaches, practices, patience, support and determination led me forward to this place where once again I can carve - not the same as before. I am changed and changing. Thankful for all I feel - the depths and degrees of darkness, light, love, compassion and ...simply....being...